Messages from the Executive

In the English summer of 2001, I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to walk from Ilkley Moor to Lake Windermere through some of the most beautiful countryside in the British Isles.

It was six months after the dreadful outbreaks of Foot and Mouth and tourism numbers were noticeably down. Undaunted by the gloomy forecasts I approached the Yorkshire Dales National Parks Office and was given an alternative route to guide me along the 135 kilometres of the long distance walking path of the Dales Way.

On day one of my eight-day walk the sun came streaming out, the flower-covered cottages and stone- walled lanes looked like a scene from a picture postcard and the much anticipated crush of cars, buses and visitors was nowhere to be seen.

Photo: Vivien Dunne
A civilised break for refreshments
at Red Lion Inn, Burnsall village,
during a walk on the
Dales Way in Yorkshire.

Leaving twelfth century Bolton Priory, the Dales Way winds across the River Wharfe, along a series of ancient stepping-stones, through cowslip-covered meadows, over traditional stone arch bridges, historic stiles and well-worn heritage footpaths. Throughout the walk county lanes lead visitors through picturesque villages, each one complete with duck pond, old taverns, travellers inns and teashops. Cottages for overnight bed and breakfast are plentiful as are the more budget-priced Youth Hostels, bunkhouse barns and occasional campgrounds.

Outside the village of Conistone the Dales Way leads uphill to open moorland before crossing a dramatic limestone platform, passing ancient enclosure systems, old ridge ploughing terraces (medieval in origin) and descending into Kettlewell. From here the walk continues as a riverside pathway leaving Wharfdale and continuing into Langstrothdale, an area now largely owned and managed by the National Trust. At this point a side trip to the top of Buckden Pike for a wonderful view of the valley is well worth the extra effort, as is a detour to the old village of Hubberholme, a village founded on a Viking settlement and boasting a church with over one hundred church mice covertly carved on every wooden surface.

As the Dales Way ascends again to the moors the path joins the original Roman Road, a legacy of Roman occupation in the second and third centuries AD. A few miles further on the scenery changes. The descent into Dentdale passes under an impressive viaduct, built originally to carry steam trains and still in use today. On this section of the Dales Way the isolated eighteenth century Sportsman’s Inn provides a wonderful night-stop for walkers.

The cobbled streets of Dent, birthplace of the great Victorian geologist Adam Sedgewick, and the charming town of Sedbergh with its Tudor shops, cobbled courtyards and local weavers' galleries, are as picturesque as the Dales Way itself. From Sedbergh the walk leaves Yorkshire and crosses into Cumbria continuing along river banks and between Fells until Lake Windermere can be seen in the distance. Arrival at Bowness on the edge of the lake is a fitting and delightful way to end a simply wonderful eight-day walk.

Vivien Dunne is an experienced walks leader, traveller and longtime member of NPA

Recommendations:

Lonely Planet Guide, Walking in Britain
Gemmell and Speakman, Dales Way Route Guide
Speakman, C., The Dales Way
Ramblers Association West Riding, Dales Way Handbook
Ordnance Survey Maps 1:25 000, Outdoor Leisure Series (2, 7, 30)

Click here to read a review on the latest edition of Lonely Planet Guide to Walking in Britain.